It started getting really steep where the line of people disappear into the clouds.
The title of this blog is a direct quote from yours truly during my descend down Mt. Hoverla. I took part in an event that has been going on for the last 100 years in Ukraine. Normally in late winter/early spring, Ukrainians gather to climb the tallest peak in the Carpathians. A Peace Corps Volunteer organization hosts this event. Last year, Catherine (PCV who hosts the event with her organization) and two other PCVs as well as group of Ukrainians conquered the mountain. This year 85 PCVs came together to climb this Ukrainian Everest!
On Friday morning, I headed into Lutsk to meet up with the local Volynska crew (Jon, Terry, and Melissa). We took around a three and half hour bus ride to Lviv. There we grabbed dinner at local restaurants and bumped into many small groups of other PCVs. Around 9pm, all the PCVs gathered in the train station to check in and get our assigned seats on the two cars that were mostly Americans. In my compartment, there was Allison (cluster mate), Val (site mate), Kathleen (fellow Turkmenistan reject), and two other PCVs that I hadn’t met before. We got settled in at a decent hour, because we wanted to be rested for our big adventure.
We arrived to the nearest town next to Mt. Hoverla around 4ish in the morning. At 7am, together Ukrainians and Americans gathered and jammed on to many marsukas to head to the beginning of the path. By the time, we got checked into the national park and dropped off at the beginning of our hike it was around 8am. The hike started on a gravel road, that eventually led us to a ski lounge, there we were paired by two as we headed out on a narrower trail.
Me trying to look calm on the climb to "little Hoverla."
The group estimated right around 600 hikers weaved its way through a forested area that was covered in mud and ice. Eventually after making it out from under trees, we hiked up a very steep incline. My group of friends were at the end of the snake up this part. It was all snow. We had an advantage of people going in front of us. We did our best to use their foot prints as foot holes. We got to the mini summit around noon. This is what we were told was the false peak. The actual summit was many more kilometers up. Only a handful of people from the entire Ukrainian and American group made it to the top. You were only allowed to go up if you had proper equipment.
Even at “little Hoverla” as some Ukrainians called it, I couldn’t see the real submit, because it was covered from clouds and blowing snow. On “little Hoverla” most Americans and Ukrainians took this as a chance to have a picnic. People snacked on things such as power bars to cucumbers and sausage. I’ll let you figure out what nationality was eating what. Also a decent amount of vodka, homemade moonshine and wine were consumed at the top as well. After taking some photos and snacking, Val, Allison and I decided that it was a good time to head back, because it was quite cold and windy.
Let me tell you on the way up I said many prayers, because I could see myself tumbling off the side of the mountain. I was nervous the whole way up and didn’t say much. With that said, going down was by far worse. To try to walk down the footsteps that we made on the way up didn’t work very well. So we along with a few others that were the first to head back decided to take to the fresh snow and side step it all the way to the bottom. This worked until I lost my footing and ended up sliding down. Now picture Allison probably 15 yards down and to the right of me with Val somewhere in the middle. The farther I slide the more momentum I built up. As soon as I started sliding I started yelling the phrase, “I don’t like this!!! Val, I don’t like this!” Val was yelling back “Grab a bush.” There were evergreen bushes that were buried in the snow that were scattered along the slope. I felt like I was using every ounce in my body to grab a bush as well as heel in my boots. Still I was sliding and couldn’t stop myself. It felt like I had greased up my pants with Crisco with how quickly I was sliding.
Should have known it wasn't going to be a piece of cake.
Finally from grabbing a bush that was many yards from where I had originally started this terrifying ‘ride’ was I able to stop. I stood there while Val made it down closer to me. We took a few minutes as I regained my breathe as well as attempted to regain my composure. Then we started at it again trying to side step our way to safety. I would slip and do everything to catch myself before ending up giving way to the Crisconess of my pants. At one point, I look at over to Val and with no shame said, “I’m scared.” It was a few more steps that again I lost control and started sliding again. Trying not to panic I thought just ride it out until I can grab a bush.
Problem. Another PCV Erin and her boyfriend were directly below me. I was like yelling again “I don’t like this!” as she was yelling up to me who was gaining speed in her direction “Kate Schmidt you better not hit me!” By the time, I reached them I was able to redirect my path of trajectory not to hit them and grab a hold of a nearby bush. Long story, short: I survived Mt. Hoverla with a little help from my friends. It was a great experience, but I don’t think I would want to climb it again. Ukrainians told us that it was the worst weather that they had experienced in all the hikes they could remember. It had rained, sleeted, and snowed at different points in the hike. Regardless, I had a great time with my fellow volunteers and have another crazy story to add to my Peace Corps Volunteer service.
Woot woot a group of us on top of "little Hoverla."
Saturday evening, we grabbed dinner in a small local café and recounted the crazy moments of the day. Val made the best analogy by saying people sliding down the mountain out of control with fear in their eyes was like watching Titanic when the ship is sinking and people are sliding down the deck. Oh, good times. The train started heading back to Lviv around 10pm and we arrived at what was 4:15amish, but really 5:15am (Ukrainian day light saving is two weeks behind). We hung out in the train station until 6am. Stood for 20mins freezing in the darkness while waiting for a marsuka out to the bus station. Caught a 7:05 bus back to Lutsk and I was home by 11:30.
It was a long weekend and I was exhausted yesterday as well as today, but again I had a great time. It was really awesome to see volunteers I don’t get to visit with a lot as well as my local crew of volunteers. I definitely realized that I lucked out with having a great group of PCVs right around me in Volynska Oblast as well as having them not far from me. I have a site mate as well as 5 volunteers 40ish minutes away by bus. From sharing the train, helping each other up and down the mountain and eating together I realized we really are like a family; strange and crazy but none the less a family. The overall experience was a great way to wrap up my spring break.
Part of the Volynska crew hanging out in the train station.
Earlier in the week, I was able to hang out with Allison at my site on Sunday and Monday. Tuesday and Wednesday, I spent reading, napping, and cleaning. Thursday, I went into Lutsk to have lunch with Terry and then use the internet café to Skype with my sister and Bre. The best part was getting to watch (from ground floor level) Leo sprint crawl across the floor to the pc. He is super, super cute these days. Then Friday was when the great Mt. Hoverla Experience started. This week I’m looking forward to a normal week of school and crossing my fingers for warm and sunny weather. Hope everyone is enjoying spring where ever they find themselves. Miss and love you all.
Kate
Quote of the Week:
“Have you ever had the bathroom attendant say molodets (great job) to you?”- PCV Ben after spending 15 minutes in the train station bathroom in Lviv
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